Traxxas Villain IV
This is an original 31-Inch Deep V hull, with Twin Wizard motors, 2:1 gear reduction gears.
The stock Villain of today has twin 20 turn Stinger motors
Boat was purchased used in the following condition:
I replaced the wires and connectors, new standard servo for steering, painted the boat four times, (never happy with how it looked) I ran it for the first season with a friend who also had a new one. We got pretty good and would run them side by side, turning together, looked like a ballet, several people would stop and watch, when we were done, they would approach us and ask a lot of questions and most wanted to get one. The start of our boat club.
Redesigned - See below
|I came up with the idea for the aluminum motor plate to
solve the problem with the plastic motor mounts melting, this was before
Traxxas started adding this mod to their production models.
To make the plate, acquire a piece of aluminum plate, cut it to fit height and length, remove the motors and gears, hold the plate in place and mark it through the mounts including the slot. Drill and file.
|I replaced the XL1 ESC with a Streak ESC which
eliminated receiver batteries and gave me higher amp rating for motors,
but sacrificed reverse capability.
I tried 14 turn motors with water cooling coils, kept the 2:1 gearing and added bearings to the drive shaft.
The 14 turn motors worked, but did not give me the performance I had hoped to get plus everything runs too hot including the wires and the batteries.
This may have caused one of the shaft bearings to seize resulting in damaging the shaft hold-down.
I do know that the Aquaspeed motors work well at 8.4V in this boat with the gearing.
Update - Direct drive does not
work for this boat
Direct Drive, I dismantled and took everything out, I drilled new holes in the motor mounts large enough to allow a universal to pass straight through. Reinstalled the motor mounts.
The aluminum motor plate lined up great when flipped top to bottom, I
mounted the motors (Aquaspeeds) to the plate and the universals to the drive shafts,
then connected the two together.
With the motor assembly in place, I glued (superglue jell) a piece wood and the angle piece to the hull, marked the holes on the motor plate, slide it out between them, put two screws in both angles, drilled and taped the motor plate, slide it back in and put two screws each side to lock it in. I will be testing it this weekend.
|The finish is a translucent red and yellow paint, clear coated and wheel
Got ride of the rubber boot for the radio switch and made a small hatch door.
Brass props can be used, you will need longer outdrive shafts and use a drive dog, this is a common upgrade for this boat. Our club rules out metal props since we run a tight course, boats tend to go over one another and metal props cut the hulls like butter.